Category Archives: Uncategorized

this broken record is hot

we had the most unusual weather in cotonou today… i think it must have been below 80 degrees! breezy and cloudy… i thought maybe if i sat on the deck with earphones, my eyes closed, and a shawl wrapped around me, maybe i could pretend i was sitting in the mountains on an autumn day. eh, no. couldn’t escape reality, despite my wild imagination. still, it was a welcome change in temperatures, which made me realize that part of my mind is convinced it’s still august.

since the weather has been consistently hot from the first day i arrived, it’s kinda like that movie “groundhog day,” i wake up to the same thing over and over. but as i was skyping with one of my friends this morning (skype lets you talk and see each other over the internet for free), i could see that he was wearing warm clothes. even the contents of his room gave evidence of cold weather. at which point i realized life goes on without me. part of me subconsciously has believed these past few months that my life is in “repeat play” (you know, when the same song plays over and over and over again) while everyone else’s lives are in “pause.” like people back home are just sitting still, waiting for me to get back. or maybe they’re watching my life on a movie, sometimes biting their nails and whispering, “no! don’t do that!” or “gosh, how’d she come out of that alive?” (like today when i got hit by a zemi jan (moped) while crossing the street… but it only barely brushed me!)

but, as it turns out, life goes on with and without me. the weather changes in other places, even if it stays the same here. and peeps back home aren’t waiting on standby, watching me live life… they’re living life too. of course i’ve known this all along, it just doesn’t feel that way.

speaking of skype, if you don’t have it, you should consider getting it. it’s free and easy. but friday is the last time i’ll have consistent internet access for a while. i’m moving to my new house, and it could take months to get internet set up!

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one laptop per child


i’ve been able to talk (i love skype) to a few of you about the desperate need for access to information here. really, if i could name one thing that holds people back in benin (or any developing nation, for that matter) it would be the limited accessibility to internet. yes, you can get on the internet. i wouldn’t be blogging otherwise. there are internet cafes, etc. but they cost money to use, and if you have the choice of buying an hour of internet or buying a meal, obviously food wins! and even if you did have money to spare on internet, because computers are so sparse, people don’t really know how to use them. at least not efficiently. i helped one of my students to a search for education opportunities the other night (universities, scholarships, etc) and it took me 5 minutes to do what could have taken him 2 hours, simply because i’ve grown up in a digital world.

if i only had 6 months to be here, and $6,000 to work with… i would secure office space, get a table and 7 laptops, a projector and internet access… then i would teach my students how to get all the information that’s essentially free back home. i think it’s truly the most effective way to teach people to help themselves. it’s the quickest way to level the playing field. i mean, my kids are smart! and creative! they just lack information.

well, this program has a similar idea. they’re doing what they can to get technology in the hands of kids that need it the most. like i said in my last post, knowledge truly is power. this is essentially giving knowledge.

through december 31, you can buy one of these innovative laptops for yourself (ingeniously designed to be used in developing nations) and give one simultaneously. for $399, one computer will be sent to a child in need, and one sent to you.

if you’re really fired up, and think you could raise the $30,000 needed to do so… you could buy 100 computers at $299 to be sent to the specific location of your choice… like… jeunesse pour christ benin!

check it out.

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world AIDS day

tomorrow, december 1, is world AIDS day. according to the world health organization, in the parts of the world where HIV/AIDS is most prevalent, only one in ten people with HIV know they’re infected. knowledge is power. no, really, it is. you know about AIDS, so you have the power to do something to make a difference. what will you do?

i’ll be praying with a LOT of people from 7:00 to 17:00 (1-11 AM EST). you can join us if you want. don’t think prayer can make a difference? agree to disagree… then do something else. visit www.worldaidscampaign.info to learn more about what you can do.

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abandonment

just realized it’s the last day of november and i’ve posted nothing on phos… so i’ll share something i wrote in an email yesterday for the sake of time. and because it really has me thinking.

okay. i’m reading a book by jeanne guyon, written in the late 17th century, titled “experiencing the depths of Jesus Christ.” it was sent to me by two dear friends, ron and ruth, who provide pastoral care to yfc missionaries. they visited me in october, and sent this book upon their return to washington. when i was seemingly (and perhaps truly) in the depths of despair last week, r&r asked if i had read the book they sent. i immediately snatched it up, reaching for anything to touch my hardening heart.

it’s really a simple book. it’s meant to be especially useful to the uneducated and illiterate. i know, a book for the illiterate… but it could be read aloud. anyway, it’s short. but i’m reading slowly. really slowly. this morning i read about abandonment, and came across something i’m not totally comfortable with. it’s good to get uncomfortable… it’s how we grow…

here’s the passage: “remember, you must never blame man for anything. no matter what happens, it was neither man nor circumstances that brought it. you must accept everything (except, of course, your own sinfulness) as having come from your Lord.”

hmm.

i mean, i’m all for abandonment, though it doesn’t come easily. something to be learned again every day. and boy, is it freeing! but to say that all things, even bad things, come from God? except my own sin… but what about another’s sin? what about when someone sins against me? of course God can use that, and has used that, and does use that… but to say that that too is from God? maybe i’m misunderstanding the passage.

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my life is a musical

tonight i took a bush van to porto novo (by myself! at night!) for class. i find that listening to my ipod shuffle on bush rides really helps to put things in perspective. odd. i know. but it’s like i have to have a backdrop of familiar music to remember just how unfamiliar my surroundings are. watching a woman walk down the road with a huge load on her head and a baby on her back… common enough… watching that same woman while listening to coldplay? or robert earl keen? or ani difranco? exotic and surreal.

so as i got comfy in my 6 inches of space this evening, i pressed play, wondering what the musical genius that is my shuffle would select for my listening pleasure. “all the trees of the field will clap their hands” by sufjan stevens. i closed my eyes, exhaled and smiled. here are the lyrics…

If I am alive this time next year,
will I have arrived in time to share?
And mine is about as good this far.
And I’m still applied to what you are.
And I am joining all my thoughts to you.
And I’m preparing every part for you.

And I heard from the trees a great parade.
And I heard from the hills a band was made.
And will I be invited to the sound?
And will I be a part of what you’ve made?
And I am throwing all my thoughts away.
And I’m destroying every bet I’ve made.
And I am joining all my thoughts to you.
And I’m preparing every part for you.

in the same way that the music colors my surroundings, my surroundings filter the music. words take on different or deeper meanings, songs become new again. i would discuss just how this song became new to me tonight, but i can’t write well enough to do so. and it wouldn’t mean the same to you anyhow. i mean, the lyrics are just one part of the entire experience. how can i possibly describe the effect of pitches, sound color, syncopation and repetition? and then all the memories that come with it… early mornings alone at MEA, contemplating preceptorial papers and fund raising while closing out grants… who was i then? who am i now? okay, enough already…

i’ve blogged about sufjan before. if you’re not already a fan, check him out.

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chez MOI!

one thing you learn quickly in africa, is that if someone asks how you’re doing, you always respond asking about their family…
“ça va?”
“oui, ça va. chez toi?”
literally, it’s asking about your home… up till now, i’ve felt silly saying “my home goes well.” i mean… what home?
until today.
today i can say, “chez moi va tres bien!!!!!!”
yes, after nearly 6 months of being a nomad (4 months in benin and 2 months in the states), i have found a home. and it’s perfect. it’s the best place ever, and no one can convince me otherwise.
i mean, it has a YARD! do you know how rare that is? very. in the smoggy city that is cotonou, i, lauren, will have trees. TREES! palm trees and banana trees!!!!!
it’s like my whole life just changed! TREES!

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get down on it

saturday’s english class was in porto novo, the political capital of benin. i teach in porto novo every wednesday night and every other saturday. to get there, i flag a “bush van” (as i like to call them… like a bush taxi, but bigger), which is essentially an astro van that has been equipped with 4 bench seats. 20 people (and their stuff) fit in a bush van. this is the standard number. there are no seat belts. it’s at least an hour’s ride each way, which costs about $2 roundtrip.

though bush vans are exceedingly hot, windy and cramped, they are fun. especially if you enjoy people watching. i would describe it, but fear some of my observations would seem irreverent to someone on the outside looking in… so ask me about it next time you see me.

anyway, the school where i teach in porto novo is partly a boarding school for girls. anyone can come to my classes, it’s just that we meet at the boarding school to accommodate the girls that board and are not allowed to leave. this technicality makes it difficult to do the fun things i get to do with the students in cotonou, but we make do…

so saturday we had a dance party in class. we talked about dance vocabulary (including body parts and movements… shake, twist, etc) and listened to african music. they tried to teach me african moves. then it was time for some american dance moves… my friend sarah was visiting, and we chose the tune “get down on it.” easy enough lyrics to teach the students, catchy tune, one of the best dance songs of all times. sarah and i totally “cut a rug” (that was a difficult expression to teach), and the students mimicked our every move… meaning they looked absolutely ridiculous. it was awesome.

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best thanksgiving ever

okay… maybe that seems like an overstatement. i mean, i am millions (it feels like) miles away from my friends and family. i have even been admittedly miserable this entire week, wanting to cry about everything, and yet finding no tears.

and perhaps that is why today was the best thanksgiving ever.

just when i thought thanksgiving was going to be dreadful, it was awesome. just when i thought i’d have to make do with chicken, a platter of TURKEY and stuffing and gravy appears! and mashed potatoes! and pumpkin pie!

the only food items missing were pecan pie and duke of windsor sandwiches (made from leftover turkey, cheddar cheese and chutney… yum).

and while there’s no substitute for my family back home (i love you guys!) i did get to dine with a room full of really bright, really caring, really interesting people… including my adopted family.

and speaking of my adopted family… in true american fashion (even though my fam here is canadian), i went shopping this morning with kim. and bought Christmas presents. and wrapped them in Christmas paper. and listened to Christmas music.

AND my real family sent me a paper “Christmas tree in a box” that now stands about 2 feet tall in my borrowed apartment!

see… best thanksgiving ever. for real.

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we all scream for…

ice cream!

saturday english classes are supposed to be especially fun. my goal is to get the students out of the classroom and into various settings to practice different kinds of vocabulary. i plan to take them to the market one day, to the beach, to my house (once i have one) etc. this past saturday in cotonou, i had a small group, only 8 students. so i “splurged” and took them to the ice cream shop around the corner.

we looked at the menu and discussed different items in english. we went to the ice cream counter to say all the different flavors in english. we discussed how we don’t “put” water in a glass, but “pour” it. i told the students they could each order one scoop of ice cream (800 cfa, or about $1.75 a pop), my treat. half the kids wanted to be like me, and ordered the exact same thing.

for the last 30 minutes of class i asked the “kids” to take 3 minutes to reflect on how God had blessed them in the past week, something they could share (in english) with the rest of the group. one student said, “God has blessed me this week with the opportunity to go where i have never gone and to eat what i have never eaten.” he had never had ice cream. wow.

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tanzania: zanzibar

and now for a summary of sights in zanzibar. i’ve been to beaches all over the world, and this one stands out for sure. click here to see the complete album.

November 11, 2007

Breakfast is served on the top floor and terrace of our hotel. The eggs in Tanzania have yokes so pale that you’d think they have no yokes at all. Skye thinks this is because the chickens are fed fish. The view at breakfast was beautiful. I felt the constant urge to pinch myself, Zanzibar is just that lovely! It’s actually a very romantic place, and it’s funny to be someplace so romantic with two platonic friends. Very cool, though.

Raph went scuba diving for the morning (I really should get certified to do the same sometime) while Skye and I visited the Anglican Cathedral that sits atop a former slave market. It was the last open slave market in Africa before the English purchased the land, tore down the market, and built this church. Skye and I arrived in the middle of the Holy Communion service. It was fun to listen to familiar tunes sung in Swahili language. We hummed along. After the service I got pics of the church, a cross made of wood from the tree Dr. Livingston’s heart was buried under in Zambia, and a slave memorial outside the church.

While eating lunch, we saw some guy wearing a shirt that said, “you looked better on myspace!” He was selling cashews. I doubt he knows what “myspace” is… really wish I had a picture!

After Raph returned from his dive, the three of us took one of those old-style “dhow” sailboats out to “Prison Island.” A prison was built on the island, which then was used to quarantine the sick, and now it’s just a run-down hotel with a beautiful tiny beach and lots of giant tortoises. Tortoises make really weird noises. We sailed back to Stone Town at sunset. Beautiful. Then cleaned up for dinner with typical Zanzibar seasoning at a restaurant on the water. Really, the trip was over the top.

November 10, 2007

After some tea and breakfast, Skye, Raph and I piled into Frank’s taxi (Frank is one of Skye’s favorite taxi drivers, so we call him to take us just about anywhere… he’s nice) and made our way to the airport. Dar Es Salaam is such an interesting mix of cultures. On the one hand, it seems much more cosmopolitan than anything I’ve seen since moving to Africa. On the other hand, you see Maasai men walking around with traditional clothes and spears… and cell phones.

At the airport, we boarded a little plane for a 15 minute flight over to Zanzibar. You can also take the ferry to Zanzibar, but it takes 3 hrs and is only $10 cheaper than flying (that’s only true if you have a “local” like Skye with you, though). The flight was beautiful! It was like being in a car with wings. We got some great pics. The water was so clear, I’m pretty sure I was able to see schools of fish from way up in the air!

Once we landed, we checked into our super cool hotel in Stone Town, with Arab influenced architecture and design everywhere. It reminded me of how much I like the Arabesque parts of Spain. Anyway, just beautiful. I had a yummy cold squid salad for lunch before taking a dip in the pool. I was enjoying a peaceful float all by myself till Raph and Skye did cannon balls on either side of me. I squealed. Like a girl.

Before sunset we went to the “Africa House” which used to be the English Club. It was so cool to watch the sun go down over the ocean behind old-style sail boats called “dhows.” I snapped sooo many pictures. Then we went to an Amore Mio for an Italian dinner, recommended by my Italian friend Erin! Again, yum.

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